Family Ramblings: Central Asia Part II: Tajikistan

After arriving in Almaty, Kazakhstan and reuniting with the tour group for dinner (sans Nancy, who was holed up in Karakol), it was off to bed. The next day, we went to the Almaty airport to fly to the capital of the third "stan" on the tour, Dushambe, Tajikistan. Dushambe literally translates as "Monday".

Tajikistan is heavily influenced by Iranian/Persian culture. In the other countries visited, people look like Mongols/northern Chinese; in Tajikistan, they have a distinctively Middle Eastern appearance. The local language, Tajik, is also descended from Farsi.

On arrival in the city, the first stop was the Museum of Antiquities. Like most of Central Asia, the history of Tajikistan goes back thousands of years. The chief attraction is a massive sleeping Buddha, remnant of some of the Chinese culture that was transmitted to the region via the Silk Road network of trading routes.

Sleeping Buddha

The local guide for this country was Boz, who suggested we go out for a Tajikistan night on the town with some live entertainment at a local restaurant. After some confusion, we were seating right next to the dance pit and stage. The entertainment was a combination of Persian-style dances, live vocalists singing what sounded like popular music (judging from having to listen to it for eight hours the day before on the drive to Almaty), and bands. I had an outstanding rack of lamb and a Caesar salad, both staples in the region.

After dinner, we had vodka in the hotel lobby, as someone from the tour group had picked up a litre or so for the equivalent of approximately $4. It was here we learned that one of our group members, in addition to being a somewhat crusty retired English bureaucrat, had an amazing talent for memorizing and reciting poetry. Most interesting of all he counted Service's "The Cremation of Sam McGee" among the poems in his repertoire, and with nary a stumble or dropped word performed it verbatim before a silent audience - much to the delight of the tour's Canadian contingent.

The next night morning was spent doing a brief tour around Dushambe. The country is obviously trying very hard to project an aura of properity, and seems eager to shake off the spectre of its Soviet past. There are a lot of new buildings in a neo-Classical style, and many more under construction. There are also the requisite shrines to national heroes dotting the scene, and of course a large central mosque.

One of the largest flagpoles in the world, located in the Dushambe central park

National library of Tajikistan
National museum of Tajikistan
The presidential palace
Ismail Samani, cultural hero of Tajikistan
Interior of the central mosque ceiling
Doorway to central mosque

Spices for sale at the Dushambe bazaar

Dushambe bazaar

Then, we transferred to a pair of vans to visit Iskandarkul, Alexander [the Great's] lake, but not before some nice scenery as we drove through steep mountains.

On the road to Iskandarkul

Mountain pass to Iskandarkul
Legend has it his horse drowned in the lake. Descending down a skinny mountain road to the lake was one of the most beautiful scenes in the entire trip. We then went on a short hike to a large waterfall.

Iskandarkul

Descent
to Iskandarkul

Seasonal shepherds' huts on the mountainside

After visiting the lake, it was off the guest house, which was rather rustic (or dilapidated). I went for a bit of a walk and had a nap until dinner. This was the first stop where we were staying two days in the same place, which was nice. We were three to a room, and the house was actually very cold - like the mountains here, it gets close to freezing at night, and the creature comforts were minimal. Still, the location of the guest house (located right in the mountains and up the road from a small village) made up for it.

The next day, we started with another hike up the river that feeds the lake.

Very cold water

The river valley we walked through

Hiking (me on the right)

After lunch, many opted for a nap or to relax around the guest house. I took the opportunity to do my own hike straight up the mountain opposite to the guest house. It was a bit sketchy since I went up the rock face, but I made out all right.

Guest house as viewed from my hike

Even further up

The mountain I climbed (not all the way though as it was getting sketchy)

After that, it was a short walk down to the village to take a look around. We were one of the first post-covid tour groups, but many of the kids were still happy to greet us in English. We also stopped to watch some potato farmers working the field.

Potato farming

The next day, we say goodbye to this beautiful area...

Mountain view

...and up some very steep roads through the mountains and through an impressive tunnel to our next destination.

Goats on the road...

...lots of them.

Plowing a field

Our mid-day break was at Istavarshan, where we stopped for lunch in a kind of old-school cafeteria where you point at various foods and hope they taste good. Dominating the town is Mug Teppe, a somewhat kitschy rebuilt fortress on a hill. The original fortress was stormed by Alexander. Inside is a park and an auditorium for outdoor performances.

Mug Teppe

Mug Teppe auditorium

We also visited the local mosque, which had beautiful painted ceilings. Near the mosque is a mausoleum where one of Mohammad's cousins is said to be buried.

Painted roof

Back on the road, our destination for the day was Khujand, one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and the furthest east of Alexander's outposts. Today it is Tajikistan's second-largest city after Dushambe. Here we visited the local museum, housed in an imitation of an ancient citadel and located in another beautiful park. The basement of the museum contained a series of mosaics showing Alexander's life and death. The main floor had a brief history of the city after that, including its destruction of the hands of the great Khan.

Death of Alexander mosaic

Alexander leads his army

Samoni again

After dinner, several of us went for a drink and wandered around the park some more, as the extremely hot weather cooled down at night and made for a pleasant evening.

Theatre near the Khujand main square

The park

Mausoleum in the park

Our last morning in Tajikistan, we made a visit to the largest market in Tajikistan at the Khujand bazaar. I didn't need anything so did my best to get some portrait shots and market scenes.

Khujand bazaar

We then travelled to the Uzbekistan border for entry to the final country on the tour, which will be the subject of the final travel post on Central Asia.

One other interesting thing about Tajikistan. It's a president-for-life situation and there is a bit of a cult of personality around Mr. President, who you see doing presidential things around every corner.