Iceland VI: To Myvatn - Aug 17/26

 Just outside of Egilsstaðir was a small waterfall we skipped the day before due to time. We started early today to visit Fardagafoss. It was short hike right off the route to Seyðisfjörður. The top led to a section right around the cliff by the waterfall, where chains were bolted into the rock to guide you around and get the best view of the falls. With more tree cover, you could have told me we were in Kananaskis and I would have believed you, so we felt right at home.

Back on route 1, we drove a short distance on gravel north to visit a reconstruction of a turf church. You could only view the outside but it was interesting. No parking charge (which is rare) so we spent a few minutes admiring the dedication of the landowner, who seems to have done this recreation as a passion project. The original church on the site seemed to be just for the farm it sat on.

A little further along, there was a more substantial collection of turf buildings - a smithy (itself a former church) and three outbuildings that were most recently used as winter sheep pens. 

The next planned stop was at the Rjukandi waterfall. We were definitely back on the tourist track as many cruises stop in Akureyri and I assume do day trips from there. Despite the moderate crowds it was a great-looking waterfall and a short but steep climb up to get closer. 

The day highlight was certainly a stop off the main route to Stuðlagil canyon. This canyon was "discovered" in 2009, when the construction of the hydro plant (that we missed visiting the day before) lowered the water level in the canyon, revealing striking basalt rock formations. 

We first went to the west side of the canyon (which was the Google Maps route). Here we found a very busy parking lot with many tour buses and long lines for bathrooms. (I sorted out a credit card issue on the phone here while waiting). Some metal steps led to various views of the canyon. While there, we noticed people on the other side playing down in the water, but could not see a way to get there. With some Googling we found there is also an east access some distance earlier on the road. After taking our photos, we headed there. The road was extremely rough and poor gravel with large potholes that threatened to awallow our trusty Picano. On top of all of this the parking lot was a 40 minute walk from the canyon, whereas the west side parking lot overlooked it. We trudged along the unassuming gravel path and were rewarded with much better access and views to the canyon. In the end I judge it worth it, though I wouldn't bother with the west side next time. 

Next was Dettifoss, marketed as the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Here we made sure to stick to the plan along the paved west side, where we got a great view overlooking the falls (getting a little wet from the mist in the process). We even saw a rainbow in the waterfall. A small further walk allowed us to make a loop to also see Settifoss, though not as close. 

Nancy found a bonus waterfall that was off a gravel road on the way back to Route 1. This was another road that our car had some trouble with due to the many rocks sticking out of the roadbed and a multiude of very deep potholes. With some careful driving, we made it and went for our short hike to see this waterfall. It looked like the trail had at one time gone right up to the falls, but now it is roped off for nature presentation, so we had to keep our distance.

The final sightseeing stop was Hverir, another site where geothermal activity lead to an otherwordly landscape. Mud bubbles at the furnace and steam rises out of natural vents in the ground. 

We next stopped into our lodgings, which were in a great location at Lake Myvayn, a shallow and beautiful lake. We a private room with a sink (nice middle ground) and shared showers and bathrooms (individual toilets and showers) which gave us a 15% discount at Daddi's Pizza, right next to the campground. This pizza was honestly awesome, not sure if it was because of the long hiking day or not but it was exactly the thing we needed.